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Materials Needed:                                             

 We start by cutting the legs of the platform bed. This 4x4 wood I found outside, discarded. Find a scrap one or buy, cut yourself or cut to size at the lumber store. 

Cut 8" in length if you want castors on it, 10" if you do not. You may opt for shorter legs (no shorter than 6.5") or longer ones.

                                          Pictured with 8" legs

Next, we cut the 2x6 boards to size, when cutting don't let the slack drop to the ground. Support the slack and cut cleanly.

With my cut I am cutting one inch bigger to play it safe. I am fine with a platform bed approximately 1 inch bigger than the mattress, if you prefer the platform structure even out with your mattress, cut exactly as your mattress is. With your 2x6 board cut: 

Next, we do some drilling!

Before we start drilling inspect the boards for the best side on the board possible. With my 2x6 board, one side had a bad knot notch on it and I made sure that side would not be on the exterior. With the "inside and bad" side, pencil a line that's 1/2 inch from the top of the whole board.

The entire platform bed will have a 1/2" gap from the top, nothing will obstruct that 1/2" inch gap all around the platform bed. This is done in advance to secure support beams/boards (plywood or wood strips) at the end of the project.

We do the short side boards (head/foot side) first, get the legs out and balance them on the ground, some wood, or on crates like me. Position them in drilling position, seeing the outside of the platform. Inspect to make sure you have the best legs showing. Realize that the next side of the leg will also show on the  other side of the bed, so you will need to select the two best sides to show on the outside.

After deciding on the best appearance, rotate the leg and board exactly opposite for drilling. For your short (head/foot) side boards you want the edge of the legs and board to even out, as shown in picture above. Remember to maintain a 1/2" inch gap.               

  
Prepped with 1/2" gap line            Rotated and ready for drilling 

 Measure and locate center 2 1/2" inches from the top and 2" from the edge.

  Get ready to drill, clamp would be great at this point but don't have any that big. Looking from the bottom for one final inspection of the legs staying on the 1/2" line and is even with the edges. I put hand pressure on the board, then put my foot on the board, and drill as straight as possible. 

 Drill through same hole repeatedly until your bolt is able to travel through somewhat firmly, but not too loose.

 This was just one leg, now repeat this step with your three others!

 After finishing drilling a total of four holes on both sides of our short (head/foot) boards we move onto the long (side) boards. We apply the same 1/2" inch gap from the above and will be drilling for two bolts on each ends.  This time the edges of the leg and board will not even up. It'll be off by 1 1/2" inches (thickness of my 2x6).

 

           This is what it should look like, make sure your first hole is parallel to long (head/foot) boards and are on the correct side *see above photo, then rotate and align very well.

 Next, make measurements to locate where the first hole is on the leg and draw an "avoid line" on the board, just for reference. If you measure from the top of the leg, remember to account for the 1/2" gap. Draw a line 3" inches from the edge because you will be drilling 3" away from the edge into center of the leg. 

With your "avoid line" and by the 3" inch mark, drill a hole and insert a bolt between 1 1/4" to 1 1/2"inches from the top and another one 1 1/3" to 2" inches from the bottom. 

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Remember to check to make sure your lines are straight, secure both pieces, and to drill straight and steady. After your first one, you have three more sides to do.

Note: I did have trim/sand 1mm-2mm off the edges of the short (head/foot) at mock assembly.

   
                                                 Getting there!

        Now with all four sides bolted together (not with nuts), the hardest part is over.  After all is done and hooked up, we now move onto establishing and securing support for the mattress and... you.

Installing the center support beam for the platform bed, begin by marking the very center of both sides (head/foot side) of this bed. Also mark for our 1/2" inch gap to find where the 2x4 support stud beam should go. 

Then trace lines around where you want to install the 2x4 Stud support bracket and disassembly your platform bed so you can drill on screws better and hammer in some built in notch on the support bracket.

Do the same for the opposite side, then measure the length from that stud support bracket to the other support bracket on the other side and cut a 2x4 stud of that length. That measurement should be within an inch or two of the length of your mattress size.  

With the platform disassembled, the next thing to do is to install our support rail on the other long sides of this bed. This support rail, 1/2" inches from the top, will hold 3/8 plywood or long 1/2" inch strips of wood like IKEA does to support your bed. 

As pictured above, the unattached support rail is long and thin (scrap wood 1/2" thick) cut into two 4' feet strips and pre-drilled (with a small drill bit) in four places ready for screws. I apply glue to one side of the support rail and screw onto the inside of the board with my 1/2" inch gap in mind. Pre-drill your rail and use 1 1/2" inches screws.

Castors? They will be great with my wood floors and is gentle on most surfaces and are lockable. I installed two opposing lockable castors and two opposing regular castors to save money instead. To skip castors, go to Step 8 of this DIY.

    It is fairly easy to install castors, just flip over the platform frame and pre-drill your four holes where the castor is centered then screw in small screws around 1" inch long.

You must already know we're almost done here! The last thing to do is get some support for the mattress and you. I am using plywood because they're still light and won't buckle too much as a wood strip support system might. Measure the sideways length of the inside right above on top of your new support rails and cut sheets of plywood of that size. I made two sheets of plywood with their standard width but the third sheet I had to cut to fit. 

Finally, after all is said and done I have to disassemble everything now and move them to my bedroom for final assembly and tightening.

Don't forget to put in your washers on both sides and tighten your bolts as securely as possible, but not to a point where it'll be almost impossible to loosen. Use 9/18 socket wrench (pictured above in hand) or a regular 9/18 wrench. I used two wrenches to counter-tighten but one wrench should do just fine.

 It's time to put back on the base support and finally put your futon or mattress on the new platform bed! 

When you are ready to tackle the platform bed again, consider painting or applying stain on it for an improved appearance, if not simply sanding the bed down to avoid splinters!

* It has been a week sleeping on the new platform bed and I have absolutely no objections. This bed really is sturdy and does not shift much when I move during the night. It remains quiet and will support heavy activity on the top!

Check back here in the future for instructions on making a nice headboard and maybe a secret compartment on the bed! If you found this DIY helpful, spread the word! 

 Happy building!

 Jason